This is a guide on installing our Switchblade Chassis. For the purpose of demonstration, we are installing the Switchblade onto a Fission AtomicBuilt. Additional and custom parts my require additional work.

1. XMOD Gen1 Switchblade Chassis
2. Phillips Screwdriver
3. Super Glue

Using Counter Sink Screws, attach all 4 of the 17mm long plastic rods onto the Chassis as shown. (You will want the part of the lower chassis that has visible silver rings around the screw holes to be facing down.) This is where the screws will counter sink into.

Using a Counter Sink Screw, attach one of the shorter white rods into the Receiver Support Hole as indicated in the picture. The purpose of this rod is to keep the receiver board in place.

Using the original screws that attached the rear of your EP to the stock chassis, place them in the same spot on the Switchblade Chassis.

Now Place the 2 black plastic spacers on the screws (with the beveled end facing up.)

Take a billet counter sink screw and place it in the front motor support hole as shown.

Place the clear spacer over screw.

Install Ep and tighten screws evenly.

Note: We no longer use the power switches since we have seen too many problems with them. However if you wish to use yours be sure to install it onto the EP prior to this step.

Furthermore, the chassis isn't designed to be used with the stock fet heat sink. It's not needed as there is plenty of air movement across the FETs which keeps them cool.

Completely assemble (including your motor of choice and Drive Shaft) the entire rear clip of the car onto the Rear Lower Deck.

Screw the fully assembled Rear Lower Deck to the appropriate holes of the Lower Chassis Assembly (for long bodied cars use the rear holes, for medium body cars use the 2nd from the rear) using billet countersink screws.

Attach Rear Upper Deck to Rear Towers with 4 rounded top billet screws.

Note: Do not secure the front screws to the Rod Supports. This step will be done later.

Place the Steering Tie Rod around the steering servo horn. Now attach one of the Front Towers and steering knuckles (making sure that you slide the steering knuckle over the tie rod.)

Now do the same with the other front tower.

Note: if your car has 4WD then make sure you properly install the Differential and Axles. If you are running 2WD than you need to put the front 2WD Front Shaft Stop in before you tighten the Front Towers.

Since there is no bottom to the Chassis you are going to have to put a dab of super glue where the 2WD Front Shaft Stop meets the Front Tower. This will prevent the Front Shaft Stop from rotating and allowing the Drive Shaft from slipping out of the front.

Using 2 rounded top billet screws, attach the Front Upper Deck to the Front Towers.

Note: Do not secure the rear screws for the Front Upper Deck. This will be done in a couple of steps.

Take one of the upper Horizontal Support Bars and using a rounded top billet attach the front of the Bar to the rear of the Front Upper Deck. You will want to position the Support Bar so that it fits between the white plastic rod and the Front Upper Deck (as pictured.)

Placing the Horizontal Support Bar over the Rear Upper Deck, attach the bar to the white plastic rod using a rounded top billet screw.

Now all that’s left is tie-wrapping the batteries, attaching the front body mount, and soldering the motor wires.